We must talk about: Fashion and politics

Is fashion political? Oh, at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior it is. And not subtly so. The message brought across is blatantly loud and clear, as well as a little too obvious one might add. Her designs for the house are both wearable and above all sellable, and I am sure noone at Dior hates that. But aren’t they also just a little bit well…boring?

I watched the ready-to-wear-show at Paris Fashion Week. According to the show notes her chosen archival moment to highlight was the opening of Dior’s youthful brand Miss Dior boutique in 1967. And yes, there were some cool pieces there, I will glady admit. But, 1967?

Close your eyes and visualize the year: flouncy a-shaped cocktail dresses, silk pajama suits adorned with feathers, velvet bell bottoms, exuberant afros, and Africa vibes – if Marc Bohan’s collection for Dior that year was anything to go by. Well, no such flamboyance at Chiuri. She sticks to her guns and serves up more “every day” garments, some with slogans printed on – apparently inspired by the boutique bags used at Miss Dior 1967- The show notes also explains the feminist references that inspired her in the creative process – like Marc Bohan’s admiration for the artist Gabriella Crespi back in the day.

I am all for women supporting women and that. I just feel this is becomming repetitive with Chiuri. When an artist sends a vibe through their chosen medium I love to ride the Phoenix, without feeling the bones of it’s skeleton up my backside. This is why I so unconditionally loved the Maison Margiela Artisan-show last month, because it was great storytelling and no spoon feeding us morals or opinions. That’s moving, and so much more powerful than a moralist finger being waved in your face.

Much has been said about fashion and politics, and anyone thinking they are not related is naive. First and foremost, fashion is a serious economic driver, although, according to Hilary Jochman, the woman behind the PoliticallyInFashion, a community that teaches workers in the industry about legislative developments, fashion is often overlooked in the broader commerce conversation. But, there is more. Much like art clothes and styling deal with culture, representation and communication – be it a runway show, red carpet appearance, or a first lady sporting a parka with “I really don’t care. Do you?” on the back. And it’s about self-expression, freedom and fun.

But there’s politics and “politics”. Batant activism on the runway is tricky as it tends to come across too obvious or just a little silly. Shouting “power to the people” in very expensive clothes is pretty cringe. Personally I have never been more embarrassed, not to mention insulted than in 2014 when Karl Lagerfeld’s show for Chanel was staged like a faux feminist protest march. Models Gisele Bündchen, Cara Delavigne and Georgia May Jagger sporting overpriced suits while carrying slogans like “Make Fashion Not War” and “Boys should get pregnant too”? “It would be naive to take this show too seriously. But a well-meaning joke is surely a far better thing than a nasty one.” wrote The Guardian. But for real? This is the stuff that cringe is made of. Looking at old photos from the show, it looks like the audience is rising their fists in the air – relax, its just their mobile phones. God, that show still makes me blush.

I am not saying Maria Grazia Chiuri is there yet. Far from it. But personally I would not be too upset if she could lay off the too in-your-face-I-am-an-activist-vibe for a bit. “We should all be feminists”. She made the T-shirt. We loved it.

Now bring back some playfulness and fantasy from the massive catalogue of the house, like the tarot-wielding fortune tellers from the haute couture collection of 2021.